Here are the notes on places I've been and enjoyed. First some travel tips for newbies, and then personal recommendations for where to stay, eat and see in each place we've been lucky enough to visit, both in the US and abroad(and yes, finally, I'm including my hometown St. Louis. Funny how you forget the obvious).

So, here are my thoughts on travel. If you're hesitant about traveling to a new place, a tour is a great way to get an overview and learn where you want to return. If you are in a tour group, consider getting a bit away once or twice to see people you normally wouldn't on the bus. In general, in big cities I've found that the on-off bus tours are great for getting a lay of the land, especially the double-deckers, if you enjoy architecture. Even if we've been to a city before, we often take them just to enjoy an overview.

Anybody with great(reasonably priced) recommendations of their own, let me know. I'll try and include them: For other info on Ireland or England, I highly recommend their Tourist Boards. I have a few links on my site, but the net is a great place to shop for places to stay. If you have any questions, comments or recommendations, email me at eileendreyer@eileendreyer.com .


Click here to check out my favorite places to travel in the US.

Mayan ruins: Belize
Amazon headwaters: Bolivia


* Prepare yourself physically...and mentally

+ read books on the area. Find out the local customs. Learn about what you're going to see. It makes it much more fun

+ prevent jet lag with common sense--the most important: The minute you get on the plane, set your watch to the New time zone, and behave accordingly

+ read books on the area. Find out the local customs(for instance, women don't wear shorts in Italy. And never in church) and laws. It makes it much more fun

* Don't be a tourist...be a visiting friend

+ the point to go is to experience something new. You Can always get McDonald's down the street

+ meet the locals. Most of the world speaks at least a little English. Many are as curious about you as you are About them.

* Take a good pocket language book and learn a few words well

+ Please...Thank you

+ Water + Toilet

+ Excuse me

You can't believe how delighted people are that you try their language. It's a real sign of respect. P.S. bring your own toilet paper. Nobody is as meticulous About that kind of comfort as Americans (refer to things to pack)

* Observe...be a student

* TRY IT...Be adventuresome

* Get off the Beaten Path. Even on a guided tour you have time to yourself. Plan your own tour.

* Don't overlook those doubledecker bus tours of cities. It's the best way to see architecture and get around

* Wear Sturdy Shoes...Be prepared to walk

+ FYI: You are much safer and get a better response from people if you don't wear the "American Uniform" of Ballcap, sunglasses and white tennis shoes. Believe me. People see you differently if you don't wear especially the tennis shoes.

* Practice packing for all trips in a single roll-on suitcase

+ Unless you're doing formal dinners every night, you really don't need more than a roll-on and a carry on. There are Cheap laundries everywhere. So pack what you need and then Take out half.

+ Things we always pack:
  • Toilet paper
  • Medications in identifying bottles
  • Photocopies of front page of passport (leave a copy at home in case of loss) If you're in a hotel with a safe, leave the passport there and carry the photocopy
  • plug and currency adaptors(any travel store has the Appropriate ones)
  • Small language book
  • small book or copies of info about what we want to see
  • credit cards. The common thought is to use credit when Possible. The exchange rate is lower. + get local cash at airports and banks for best rates + Don't bring bills larger than $50. Small banks don't Accept them for exchange.
  • sweetener. The US is the only place that offers it.

OKAY NOW, HERE ARE MY PARTICULAR FAVORITES:

I'm prejudiced. Ireland is where God lives for me. I love the beauty of the country, the sound of the sea, the soft northern light, the skirling music and raucous sport, the history and the crac (you have to ask an Irishman about that). One of the most important things to know about going to Ireland, though, is that fully half of the experience of visiting is the people themselves. I've never met a kinder, more friendly, more hospitable people anywhere in the world. My husband swears that as children they were warned that if they failed to give directions the fairies would get them. It's why I always stay in B&Bs, and why I learned to stay in B&Bs everywhere I go. Not only does that provide a more personal atmosphere, it inspires unexpected benefits(also, because of the hot economy, a lot of hospitality workers in the cities are from Eastern Europe. Still nice, but it's not the local flavor).

Always ask the homeowner for local recommendations. They're more than happy to help. In fact, once in Ireland when I asked a lovely lady where the local music pub was, she called her husband in from blowing tree stumps so they could take me themselves. Just remember to respect their home and the privacy of your hosts(kitchens must be invited into). And be prepared to be surprised and delighted.

If you haven't been, get a book like Inside Ireland. Decide what you want to see and how you want to get there. And most importantly, remember that Irish roads aren't like ours(and it's more than driving on the wrong side of the street). The country may be the size of Illinois, but the average speed is about 35mph. And that's not counting the times you stop for photos, or a beer, or to ask directions(make a point of it. It's an experience all to itself).

 
RECOMMENDED EATS AND SLEEPS
Ireland (by region)
(phone prefix from US 011-353 Phoning in country, begin number with 0 )
SLEA HEAD, DINGLE PENINSULA
HORSERACING ON DINGLE STRAND

Dublin B&Bs:
Moat Lodge
Lucan, Dublin County
01-6241584 www.moatlodge.ie
(west of the city on bus lines, easy to get to and from.. Love little village with a great pub, Courtney's Highest recommendation)

Mrs. Griffin Aaron Court
133 Merrion Road
Ballsbridge, Dublin
1-260-2631
(a bit pricy, but worth it--near south of city)

Slievenamon
302 Clontarf Road, Dublin
018331025

West:
  Restaurants

(Connemara, Yeats Country)
Brid and Marc Torrades
Glebe House
Collooney, Co Sligo
71-67787
(a bit pricy, but historic, easy access to beautiful Yeats country)
* also has an excellent small restaurant specializing in fresh local produce

Markree Castle
Collooney, Co Sligo
www.markreecastle.ie

(If you want a treat. Pricey but well worth it. 17th century Castle with all modern conveniences, that's a home. Not a conference center.

Mrs. Breege Gavin
Lockavrea View Farmhouse
Maam, Co. Galway
92-48040
(beautiful Connemara valley, close to where the Quiet Man was filmed,within driving distance of the coast. So popular, film companies stay here)

Mrs. Barron
Newpark House
Ennis, Co Clare
065-6821233
(a bit pricier, but check it out: http://www.celtic-vacances.co.uk/sh-cent/e7.htm)


Fiddler's Creek

Rockwood Parade
Sligo town
(great food and location)

Mitchell's Seafood Restaurant
Market Street, Clifden, Co. Galway

Burke's Pub
Clonbur, Co. Galway
(great place. A music town with a Great little gift shop. Mountain View)

   
IF YOU LOVE TRADITIONAL MUSIC, MY FAVORITE TOWNS FOR IT ARE DOOLIN IN CO. CLARE. ANY PUB WILL HAVE FABULOUS SESSIONS. OR DINGLE TOWN. ESPECIALLY AN DROICHAD BEAG or O'Flaherty's Check the scene at http://www.irishmusicbars.com/

Shannonside
(within short drive of Shannon Airport, Burren, great golf, if you're into that kind of thing)

  Restaurants

Beechgrove Farmhouse
Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co. Clare
Breda Conheady
61-368140
(website through Irish Farmhouse Holidays)
(lovely small farm only 10 min. from Shannon above Limerick so you miss traffic. Lovely hospitality)

Clonunion House B&B
Mrs. Fitzgerald
Limerick Road , Adare, Limerick Co
61-396657
(website through Irish Farmhouse Holidays)
(Georgian beauty close to picturesque Adare village. Lovely hospitality)

Mrs. Nuala Duffy Shanagarry
Killarney Road, Newcastle
West Limerick
066-56254
(about thirty minutes from Shannon. I can't recommend this couple more highly for hospitality)


Abbey Tavern

Quin, Co. Clare

 

   

Southwest:
(The Ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula, Killarney, Cork)

Ring of Kerry Restaurant
Mrs. Moran
Moran's Farmhouse
Bunavalla, Caherdaniel
Ring of Kerry
66-75208
(Spectagular site overlooking Derrynane Bay, fabulous hostss)

Teacher's Restaurant

Caherdaniel Ring of Kerry
66-94-75025
   
Dingle Peninsula Restaurants:

Mrs. Eileen Hurley
Hurley's Farmhouse
Dingle Peninsula
66-64284
(another great hostess)

Slea Head Farmhouse
Slea Head, Dingle, Kerry Co.
66-9156391 www.sleaheadfarm.com
(Away from town, but the scenery is unparalleled. And the Firtears lovely()

(A bit of luxury)
Mrs Sile (Sheila) O'Gorman
O'Gorman's
Glaise Bheag, Ballydavid
Dingle Peninsula (co. Kerry)
66-55162
(another great view, 20 minutes from Dingle Town)

Mrs. Angela de Mordha
de Mordha Accomodation
Dunquin, Dingle Peninsula (Kerry)
66-9156276
ardaingeal@hotmail.com
(Mr. DeMordha runs the Blasket Center. A real Gaeltacht house)

Mrs. Alice Hannaffin
An Speice
Ballyferriter, Dingle Peninsula|
66-56254


O'Gorman's Cafe me Mara

(a great scenic restaurant)
(See B&B)

The Old Pier
Ballydavid, Dingle Peninsula
(Very near the O'Gorman's: The owner is a real character.)

Stonehouse
Fahan, Ventry
Dingle Peninsula
66-8159970

   
Killarney  

Gleann Fia Country House
Killarney, Co. Kerry
www.gleannfia.com
(in a too-touristy town, a lovely rest in beautiful gardens just far enough outside of town for quiet. Great center for touring.)

 

Bricin
26 High Street
Killarney, Co. Kerry
www.bricin.com
(great 2nd story wine bar)

Gaby's Seafood
High Street
Killarney

SCOTLAND:
We took two trips to Scotland. One that I call the Flying American Tour, or Clans, Castles and Cathedrals--everything but Edinburgh and Glasgow. It's another country I loved driving through. Wide roads, lots of space, amazing scenery. It's especially fun to walk into a pub and ask what the owner's favorite whiskey is.

You'll get everybody talking. And drink some great whiskey.

The second trip we took, we only went to Edinburgh. I found it much easier to take plane or train in and then rely on public transport. It's a very walkable city(although I swear it's all uphill), but your B&B, hotel or local information office has a handy 3-day pass on buses and trains, and entry to most of the major attractions. And when you go, make sure you go on the Mary King's Close tour. It really shows what the old town used to be like. And it's haunted. A little girl is down there, and tourists all bring her little stuffed toys.

(Telephone access to Scotland and England 011-44)

 
Edinburgh Restaurants

53 Frederick Street
(the address is the same)
www.53frederickstreet.com
(a real find! AN 1820 townhouse in New Town, decorated in period detail. Warning: rooms are on the fourth floor with no elevators. Well worth it, though)

Mr. John Franchi
The Manse Innes Street
Plockton (at the bridge to Isle of Skye)
1599-544442

Breadelbane House
Killen, Perthshire
(very near Sterling)
15-67820134

Craigadom
Castle Douglas, Scotland
(a wonderful, affordable country house)
1556-650233


Wok and Wine

57 Frederick Street
www.wokandwine.com

Daniel's
88 Commercial Street
Leith (a 15 minute bus ride to The Firth)
797-439-6889

 

   
ENGLAND:
England is just too diverse to comment on in one place. I've been lucky enough to see a lot of it. The good news is that the train service is amazing. The bad news is that it is also expensive. There is also an excellent network of bus lines. Or you can drive everywhere but London. They actually charge tax for people to even drive through certain areas. But the public transport there is fabulous, and taxis great fun, and I think reasonable. Remember that when visiting, especially London, that August is the European vacation month, and everybody has come to see the same things you have(I was once caught in a Japanese tour at Westminster Abbey, and unable to even touch ground for twenty minutes). London is another city I highly recommend taking the double-decker bus tour. And don't miss those historical museums, like the Naval Museum. The Brits really know how to put a museum together.
Howarth
(Bronte Country)
Down the road from Jervaux Abbey

Mid-North

Mrs. Judy Smith
The Old Vicarage
Darley, N. Yorkshire
(near Harrogate)
01423 780526
www.darley33.freeserve.co.uk
(award-winning village and house garden in the exquisite Yorkshire dales)

Chris Bell
Manor House Farm
Uttoxeter, Derbyshire
018895904
(real Jacobean farmhouse complete with eccentrics!)

 

ITALY:

 

 

I'm going to recommend a town. Recently I got to go to the International Women's Fiction Festival in Matera, Italy, and I fell in love. With the whole town. It's a bit out of the way, it's hugely historic(the second oldest inhabited site in the world), and it's the site where Mel filmed The Passion of the Christ. Honest. His set decorator must have taken one look at this place and passed out.

The town is quaint, out of the way, slow moving, and beautiful, the people warm and friendly. Every night the population dresses up and walks the piazzas. Two nights while we were there, they had saints' processions in the middle of town(that's Cosmos and Damien up there on those shoulders). The only caveat? There is one cab in town. You walk everywhere, and it's very hilly.

I stayed at a lovely 18th century palazzo on the hill, but there are many places to stay and eat. Stop by if you're close. You won't regret it.

Casino Ridola
Via Morelli, 13
39-0835318811

PRAGUE:
My husband travels to Prague on business and has been begging me to join him. I finally did, and have to say I'm really glad I did. This is an amazing city. It's the only major European city to not be bombed during World War II, which means the historic center is intact. And this represents more than a thousand years of history. I recommend you stay down in the historic area. We stayed in the Male Strana, beneath the castle, and the area is quaint, packed in great little pubs and restaurants, and steeped in history. If you like stained glass, don't miss St. Vitus Cathedral. If you like classical music, you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a historic palace or church that isn't playing something each night. My only caveat is to familiarize yourself with the language before going, especially if you want to use trains or subways while you're there. It's very intimidating for a westerner, but after about a day, I felt much more comfortable about it. And most Czechs are fluent enough in English to communicate. Also, if you try out at least the basics, Please, thank you, etc. the locals are delighted, and will even help you with pronunciation(it became a game with me). Just don't expect a whole lot of green veggies at the restaurants.

Recommendations:

Hotel Appia Residence
Sporkova 3
(Right in the middle of the historic area, a 14th century convent beautifully restored. Arranges taxi from airport)

Restaurants:
There are tons of reasonably priced pubs and cafes. Prague specializes in the coffee house. for something special:

David's Rstaurant
Trziste 21/611
Tucked away in a back street near Appia. Cozy, great food.

Mlynec Restaurant
Novotneho Lavka 9
Old Town, Prague 1
(one of several restaurants with a view to Charles Bridge. Great view and food)

 

 
 
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