Ireland
I’m prejudiced. Ireland is where God lives for me. I love the beauty of the country, the sound of the sea, the soft northern light, the skirling music and raucous sport, the history and the crac (you have to ask an Irishman about that). One of the most important things to know about going to Ireland, though, is that fully half of the experience of visiting is the people themselves. I’ve never met a kinder, more friendly, more hospitable people anywhere in the world. My husband swears that as children they were warned that if they failed to give directions the fairies would get them. It’s why I always stay in B&Bs, and why I learned to stay in B&Bs everywhere I go. Not only does that provide a more personal atmosphere, it inspires unexpected benefits(also, because of the hot economy, a lot of hospitality workers in the cities are from Eastern Europe. Still nice, but it’s not the local flavor).
Always ask the homeowner for local recommendations. They’re more than happy to help. In fact, once in Ireland when I asked a lovely lady where the local music pub was, she called her husband in from blowing tree stumps so they could take me themselves. Just remember to respect their home and the privacy of your hosts(kitchens must be invited into). And be prepared to be surprised and delighted.
If you haven’t been, get a book like Inside Ireland. Decide what you want to see and how you want to get there. And most importantly, remember that Irish roads aren’t like ours(and it’s more than driving on the wrong side of the street). The country may be the size of Illinois, but the average speed is about 35mph. And that’s not counting the times you stop for photos, or a beer, or to ask directions (make a point of it. It’s an experience all to itself)
(by region) (phone prefix from US 011-353)
Dublin
Hotel Recommendations
The Lombard Pub
1 Lombard Street / 44 Pearse St.
Dublin 2
+353 1 671 8033
- A real find. This B&B is a well-run, comfortable , reasonably priced set of rooms over a pub in the very middle of Dublin. Everything is walkable. You sign in at the pub and the managers are in charge, but they’re friendly and helpful and kind. They were wonderful when we ran afoul of the volcano last trip and had to keep changing reservations. I highly recommend it.
Staunton on the Green
83 St Stephens Green S stauntononthegreen.ie
+353 (0) 1 4782300
- Historic rowhhouse on St. Stephen’s Green right in the middle of the city
Lucan, Dublin County
01-6241584 www.moatlodge.ie
(west of the city on bus lines, easy to get to and from.. Love little village with a great pub, Courtney’s Highest recommendation)
133 Merrion Road
Ballsbridge, Dublin
1-260-2631
(a bit pricy, but worth it–near south of city)
302 Clontarf Road, Dublin
018331025
West
Hotel Recommendations
Bruckless House
Bruckless, Donegal
074 9737071
- A lovely Georgian mansion on the shores of Donegal Bay, full of antiques and charm, with a series of natural gardens that make you think the faeries have returned. And best of all, your hosts, Joan and Clive Evans, who treat you like friends and have a wealth of information about the house and its history.
Iorras House
Ballincar, Rosses Point, Sligo
071-4494
- A lovely, comfortable, friendly home that backs onto Sligo Bay
Connemara
Ben Breen House Letterfrack, Co Galway info@benbreenhouse.com
+353 (0)95 41171
Kinvarra, Co Galway
FALLON’S
Mary Fallon
Main Street fallonsbandb@hotmail.com 00353 (0)91 638088
(Friendly little hotel on the ocean in a town with good music)
Mrs. Breege Gavin
Lockavrea View Farmhouse
Maam, Co. Galway
92-48040
(beautiful Connemara valley, close to where the Quiet Man was filmed,within driving distance of the coast. So popular, film companies stay here)
Mrs. Barron
Newpark House
Ennis, Co Clare
065-6821233
(a bit pricier, but check it out: http://www.celtic-vacances.co.uk/sh-cent/e7.htm)
Restaurant Recommendations
Castlemurray House Hotel
St. Johns Point, Dunkineely
Co. Donegal, Ireland
74 9737022
- This would be a lovely enough restaurant if the food were just great, which it is. But it also has one of the greatest views in Ireland.
Fiddler’s Creek
Rockwood Parade
Sligo town
(great food and location)
Mitchell’s Seafood Restaurant
Market Street, Clifden, Co. Galway
Burke’s Pub
Clonbur, Co. Galway
(great place. A music town with a Great little gift shop. Mountain View)
IF YOU LOVE TRADITIONAL MUSIC, MY FAVORITE TOWNS FOR IT ARE DOOLIN IN CO. CLARE. ANY PUB WILL HAVE FABULOUS SESSIONS. OR DINGLE TOWN. ESPECIALLY AN DROICHAD BEAG or O’Flaherty’s Check the scene at http://www.irishmusicbars.com/
Shannonside
Hotel Recommendations
(within short drive of Shannon Airport, Burren, great golf, if you’re into that kind of thing)
Beechgrove Farmhouse
Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co. Clare
Breda Conheady
61-368140
(website through Irish Farmhouse Holidays)
(lovely small farm only 10 min. from Shannon above Limerick so you miss traffic. Lovely hospitality)
Mrs. Nuala Duffy Shanagarry
Killarney Road, Newcastle
West Limerick
066-56254
(about thirty minutes from Shannon. I can’t recommend this couple more highly for hospitality)
Bunratty
THE COURTYARD GUESTHOUSE
Bunratty Village
info@bunrattycourtyard.com
+353 61 361444
(convenient to Shannon, friendly, helpful)
Restaurant Recommendations
Abbey Tavern
Quin, Co. Clare
Southwest
(The Ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula, Killarney, Cork)
Hotel Recommendations
Gleann Fia Country House
Killarney, Co. Kerry
www.gleannfia.com
(in a too-touristy town, a lovely rest in beautiful gardens just far enough outside of town for quiet. Great center for touring.)
Killarney
INVERARAY HOUSE Coolmagort, Beaufort
(near entrance to the Gap of Dunloe)
Noel and Eileen Spillane
Clonakilty, Co Cork
DUVANE FARM Ballyduvane, Clonakilty duvanehouse@eircom.net +353 23 88 33129
(a lovely Georgian house with the perfect hosts in Noreen and Rensie McCarthy
Restaurant Recommendations
Gaby’s Seafood
High Street
KillarneyBricin
26 High Street
Killarney, Co. Kerry
www.bricin.com
(great 2nd story wine bar)
Dingle Peninsula
Hotel Recommendations
Ballydavid
An Dooneen
Hurley’s Farmhhouse
Kilcooley, Ballydavid
+353 66 915 5112
( the quiet side of the Peninsula, only 20 min
to Dingle Town)
Slea Head Farmhouse
Slea Head, Dingle, Kerry Co.
66-9156391 www.sleaheadfarm.com
(Away from town, but the scenery is unparalleled. And the Firtears lovely)
Gorman’s
Glaise Bheag, Ballydavid
Dingle Peninsula (co. Kerry)
+353-66-55162
(for a bit of a splurge: wonderful place with a fabulous coastal view and its own restaurant that’s even better. Sheelagh is a warm and friendly hostess)
Dunquin (Dún Chaoin)
Mrs. Angela de Mordha
de Mordha Accomodation
Dunquin, Dingle Peninsula (Kerry)
66-9156276
ardaingeal@hotmail.com
(Mr. DeMordha runs the Blasket Center. A real Gaeltacht house)
Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtéaraigh)
An Speice
Mrs. Alice Hannaffin
Slea Head Drive
http://anspeice.com/
+353 (0)66 915 6254
If you want to rent in Dunquin/Ballyferriter area about 20 min from Dingle town, I enthusiastically recommend the O’Connors. They have taken over several houses in the area and offer high level rentals with amazing support and friendship.
The easiest way to show them in one place is this Tripadvisor page. The O’Connors own the 3rd, 6th, 7th, & 8th house. I’ve stayed in most of them, and each is a little gem. Tell them I sent you. The scenery is second to none, and the nearby villages real Irish life in the Gaeltacht area.
Restaurant Recommendations
Dingle Town
Doyle’s Seafood House
4 John Street, Dingle
+353 66 915 2674
(one of the dependable venerables, been serving wonderful seafood since I’ve been going)
Lord Baker’s
Main Street
+353 (0)66 9151277
(another familiar name, one of my favorites. Warm, comfortable, friendly. You feel as if you’re visiting a friend, and the food is lovely. Easy to understand why John Moriarity was awarded the All Ireland Host of the Year)
PUBS
As my old mom used to say, you can’t swing a dead cat in Dingle without hitting a great trad music pub. Below are just some of my favorites (and coincidentally where they have let me sing trad songs) (No. Not Danny Boy)
An Droichead Beag
Corner, Spa Rd
Foxy John’s
Main Street
A Mighty Session
Main Street
O’Sullivan’s Courtyard Pub
The Mall
And then for me the quintessential true trad music pub, O’Flaherty’s. It’s where you’ll find more locals than tourists. Settle in and enjoy
O’Flaherty’s (O Flaithbheartaigh’s)
Bridge Street
OUTSIDE DINGLE TOWN
RESTAURANTS/PUBS
Ballydavid
Gorman’s Clifftop
(a great scenic restaurant)
(See B&B)
The Old Pier
Ballydavid, Dingle Peninsula
https://oldpierrestaurant.wordpress.com/
(Very near the O’Gorman’s: The owner is a real character.)
Dunquin (Dún Chaoin)
Kruger’s
http://www.krugers.ie/en/contact-krugers
(historic. The real thing)
Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtéaraigh)
Tig an tSaorsaigh
http://www.searspub.com/
Slea Head Drive
Tig Aine
Slea Head Drive
(lovely little cafe and gallery with a great view)
Tig Bhric
https://westkerrybrewery.ie/
Ring of Kerry
Hotel Recommendations
Restaurant Recommendations
Southeast
Hotel Recommendations
Kilkenny
Butler Court Guesthouse
John & Yvonne Dalton
Patrick Street
+353 56 7761178
www.butlercourt.comv
- Adapted from the old stables of Kilkenny Castle, comfortable, clean, convenient, with wonderfully friendly hosts.
Nenagh, Co Tipperary
Ashley Park House
+353 67 38 223
https://ashleypark.com/
- a lovely 17th c estate in lovely grounds. Something a bit special
Roundwood, Co Wicklow
(near Glendalough)
Lough Dan House
Carrigeen Duff
Lough Dan
+353 1 2817027
https://loughdanhouse.com/bedandbreakfast/
+ Convenient to Wicklow Way & Glendalough
Restaurant Recommendations
Kilkenny
Kyteler’s Inn
27 Saint Kieran’s Street Kilkenny
+353 56 772 1064
https://www.kytelersinn.com/
- One of the most unique and cool restaurants in the world. Founded in 1324 by a convicted witch. And that’s just the beginning of the story.